Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Spaces
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with round purplish berries on a rambling garden plot situated between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above the city downtown.
"I've seen people concealing illegal substances or whatever in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who also has a kombucha drinks business, is among several urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make vintage from several hidden urban vineyards nestled in back gardens and community plots across the city. The project is too clandestine to have an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the slopes of the French capital's historic Montmartre area and more than 3,000 grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. Based in Italy charitable organization is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by creating permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader.
Like all wines, those produced in cities are a result of the soils the vines thrive in, the vagaries of the climate and the individuals who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, environment and heritage of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he grew from a cutting abandoned in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Eastern European grape," he comments, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely hardy. In contrast to noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other famous European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Across Bristol
The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden overlooking Bristol's shimmering harbour, where historic trading ships once bobbed with casks of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her arm. "It's the scent of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the UK from East Africa with her household in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously endured three different owners," she explains. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Sloping Gardens and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has cultivated more than 150 plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which tumbles down towards the silty River Avon. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a city street."
Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of plants slung across the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's Great National Parks series and BBC Two's gardening shows, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can make interesting, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars focusing on low-processing vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It's very on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts come off the skins and enter the juice," says Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries introduce preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and then add a lab-grown culture."
Difficult Environments and Creative Solutions
In the immediate vicinity active senior Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to harvest Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on regular visits to Europe. However it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the valley, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on